Big Bend Ranch State Park
Looking east across Fresno Canyon to the Flat Irons and Fresno Peak (5,096’), on the western side of the Solitario volcanic caldera. Photo © Nick Taylor
Note from Charlie Gandy: This blog post focuses on our current draft route of the xTexas Trail Project through Big Bend State Park which Nick Taylor has graciously ground-proofed to offer his insights. As the project progresses, we’ll be inviting other ground-proofers to blog about their insights and expertise as well.
Photo courtesy of IMBA.com
By Nick Taylor
In my opinion, this portion of the xTx through Big Bend Ranch State Park will be one of the most memorable parts of the xTx. Firstly the stark beauty of the desert and the mountains is stunning. Then the raw challenge to make your way through this extreme environment will likely result in lots of Type 1, and Type 2 fun. (Type 1 is fun to do; Type 2, not so much fun to do, but more fun to talk about afterwards).
Just mountain biking the route, as I did, is a worthy challenge with the 3,000’ of climbing.
The xTx draft route overlaps much of one of the Epic Trails of the International Mountain Bike Association - the Fresno-Sauceda Loop. But don't worry, most days you'll be lucky to see another soul !
Even if you're not on a horse, the old stagecoach roads (now 4WD, or singletrack) and mining and ranch ruins make you feel like you're back in the old West. Which you are - this was a working cattle ranch up into the 1980s, and still has a small herd of Longhorns.
ROUTE
Draft route on CalTopo (subject to revision) for the ~28 mile segment, Lajitas to Sauceda. (For more route-finding detail, click on the right hand panel, and “Stack a Base Layer” - “Scanned Topo” at 50% - as an additional layer on the map.)
The first 10 miles up to the old, abandoned Whit-Roy mercury mine generally follows the old Buena Suerte wagon road, but is mostly flowy to chunky singletrack - lots of Type 1 fun, especially for bikers.
Then the trail gets more rugged. If on two wheels, be prepared to do some hike-a-bike through the loose gravel washes - this ain't no country for clip-in pedals and rigid cycling shoes !
Bonus Pro Tip - make sure your cactus-pulling tweezers are easily accessible with just one hand, Just don't ask me how I know, 'cause that was Type 3 fun.
Horse Crippler Cactus © Mick Sudano, Trail Warrior
3.5 miles up the track you may find actual flowing water from the spring in the Arroyo Primero, 1/4 mile west of the trail at Fresno Cascades.
Just north of Fresno Cascades, at the trail junction, a side trip 1.3 miles west (one way) takes you to the Madrid House adobe ruin, and the Trough Spring.
Trough Spring near the Madrid House Ruin © Nick Taylor
The main route brings you to the Crawford-Smith Ranch ruins in ~ 2 miles (and "occasional" water 200 yards northwest of the ruins, by the mouth of the canyon).
Crawford-Smith Ranch Ruins © Nick Taylor
Now the majestic western peaks of the Solitario volcanic crater come into view…
The Flat Irons and Fresno Peak from the Fresno Canyon 4WD Creekbed Route © Nick Taylor
But don’t forget to pay attention to the trail, as the hard-packed singletrack dips in and out of the “gravel pit” 4WD route in the creek bed. The last flash flood killed a lot of trail signs - if you miss a turn out of the creek bed, you will be slogging in loose gravel, and experiencing some of that good ol’ Type 2 fun.
Fresno Canyon Trail © Nick Taylor
1.4 miles north of the old ranch you have an option to visit Mexicano Falls - a one-way 1.5-mile route west on the dry wash (a creek bed route, not a trail).
Further north the Los Portales caves beckon, a half mile east of the trail.
Los Portales Caves © Nick Taylor
Another 3 miles, roughly, are the petroglyphs at Manos Arriba (you have to leave the hard packed singletrack for a bit to follow the 4WD gravel track in the dry wash). Two miles on, the 500’ climb out of Fresno Canyon starts up the jeep road.
Thase who want more singletrack, and don’t mind ~3 miles of “extra credit” miles, can follow the IMBA Epic mountain bike route, and turn off the jeep road onto the singletrack up to Pila Montoya, and then onto the 3 miles of gradual downhill singletrack - super Type 1 fun - on the Encino Trail
This option also brings you to the usually reliable solar well at Papalote Encino (bring a filter).
Papalote Encino Stock Tank © Nick Taylor
Luxury awaits at the Sauceda Ranger Station - potable water, hot showers, Wi-Fi, and even ICE, all available 24/7. After Sauceda, navigation is a lot simpler following the main park road (rough gravel) - but there is no shortage of beauty.
The canyon and 5 water pools of the Cinco Tinajas are worth the 1/2 mile hike (one way) off the main road.
Another half mile takes you to the ancient rock shelter, metate holes and petroglyphs.
Cinco Tinajas © Nick Taylor
Further up the main road, 7/10ths of a mile off the road (one-way), are the enchanting springs and seasonal waterfall of Ojito Adentro.
But even on the main road, you will see countless magical rock formations, to which even professional photos can barely do justice…
HooDoos at Sunset © George Hosek - more stunning Big Bend photos here
…and the stars at night, are big and bright , deep in the heart of WEST Texas - above the cliffs of the ancient rock shelters, and petroglyphs, at Las Cuevas:
Las Cuevas, Photo Credit - Earl Nottingham, © Texas Parks & Wildlife Department
PLANNING
This leg of the xTx begins at the Barton Warnock Visitor Center, just north of Lajitas. Pick up your State Park camping permit here, if you didn't register online.
WATER
Check the availability (or NOT) of natural water sources between the trailhead and the 30 miles to the Sauceda Ranger Station. You'll want to budget extra time and water for side trips off the main trail - and for unplanned delays.
For those new to the Chihuahuan desert, a stock tank on the map typically means dead tumbleweeds - and NO water.
A spring on the map does NOT mean there is actually water there. And that blue color on the map disingenuously called a “creek” only means that water might be present after a hard rain. (But it does mean a great spot for a flash flood!)
Dry Tank © Nick Taylor
The spring just west of Fresno Cascades, and the Trough Spring by Madrid House were still flowing in March of 2025, even after 2 years of drought - but don't bet your life on water that you are not carrying with you.
WEATHER
Monthly averages may be found at the Big Bend National Park website - but day to day will vary tremendously. You need the latest update. A beautiful 80-degree February day on Wed. afternoon turned into a frigid 18-degree cold front (before wind chill) on Thurs. morning. A 60 degree swing in just 12 hours.
Consider timing your trip after the summer "monsoon" season (May to September) to see the desert at its' greenest, and have the best chance for springs to be flowing. To be clear, "monsoon" in the desert means 1.5" of rain for the month...
NAVIGATION
As well as downloading the park map onto your phone, be sure to pick up the 1:48,000 scale Discovery paper map. If your phone dies, the paper might just save your bacon.
If they have the 1:24,000 scale Fresno West Rim paper map available, you are in luck. This can make finding springs, and following the trail easier, especially when it ducks in and out of the Fresno Canyon creek bed. Also pick up the pamphlets for the side trails of interest. Besides interesting interpretive notes, a detailed 1:24,000 mini-map is thoughtfully included.
SAFETY
Visitor deaths from extreme heat, or cold, or falls, are reported on a regular basis next door in Big Bend National Park, the latest tragedy from extreme heat late October 2024.
...not to mention the danger of flash floods in the dry washes. In the middle of a drought, the last flash flood in Fresno Canyon moved huge boulders as it scoured the canyon bottom.
Cell service is non-existent in most of the park’s interior. If you are lucky you might catch a signal at a high point, but it would be smart to have a personal locator beacon on you at all times. Even better, a buddy to send the SOS if you are down for the count. A broken bike, an injured body, or a lame horse, can quickly become an emergency when water is 15 miles away, and shade is scarce.
DON’T LET THE CHALLENGE HOLD YOU BACK !
This is one of the "Crown Jewels" of the xTx. Not just beautiful, but a chance to step back in time, into real wilderness, and test yourself. You just need to remember - you can’t call it an adventure unless something goes wrong !